When you are finished, your water heater will have two short pipes sticking up that are capped on the ends. The hot and cold water lines will enter and exit the water heater from the side of the "T" -- instead of directly from the top as they do now. This arrangement creates an air-chamber which provides the water with a place to expand when the valves are shut-off suddenly ... instead of banging the pipes.

Question: We have a problem with venting our new dryer. Because of its location in the middle of the house, there is no way to vent to the outside. The last thing I want to do is harm my brand new dryer and our health.

Is there a way to vent the dryer through the roof? I assume that first a hole must be cut in the drywall to run the dryer duct. But what do I do when I get to the horizontal board above the studs?

Answer: I strongly encourage you to take on this project. The hazards created by venting a dryer into a living space are many and often dangerous to the occupants.

There are dryer vent ducts that are designed to go through the roof. Ask your hardware store or lumberyard for details.

Cutting through the "horizontal board" (aka: Top and Tie Plates) of the wall will usually not be an issue unless it is a bearing wall -- meaning that it carries the weight of the ceiling or floor joists or rafters above. If your home has roof trusses, (as most homes constructed in the last 25 years do) interior walls are usually not bearing walls.

If the wall is not a bearing wall then remove the drywall for one stud bay, cut out the top and tie plates, and install the ducts recommended by your hardware supplier. Be sure to purchase proper flashing for the roof penetration to prevent leaks. Then caulk the roof flashing, patch the drywall, tape and texture, paint, and you’re finished.

Plan about a week total for the project so that your drywall repairs have time to dry between coats.